Friday, January 28, 2011

What's up with the HAIR?

Hypothetical situation: there's 100 French girls on the metro with me. Out of those 100 it's inevitable that 40 of them will have what I call 'club' hair, 40 will have 'coiffed hair' and the last 20 will have 'inbetween' hair. I don't understand the hair phenomenon here in Toulouse.

If you are French, and you are reading this...visit Toulouse and you'll see that I'm not exaggerating.

Now, I shall explain the phenomenon. I have classes at various times of the day throughout the week, so I get the pleasure of riding the metro at different times. No matter what time of day it is, I always notice that the hair phenomenon doesn't change.
There are young ladies who have 'club' hair. It's oddly scented, sometimes brightly colored in spots, and there's serious dishevelment going on. I'm not talking about intentional bed head or even regular bed head...it passes that level of unkemptness. These females look like they prepared their hair, went out dancing all night, got into a fight, had some 'relations', then stumbled onto the metro. Their hair is frizzy, knotted, half curled, sort of crimped, and matted ALL AT ONCE. I've known people trying to let dreadlock their hair before and these ladies are NOT in that situation...it's facinating to me to see these masterpieces of unkempt hair on girls who have fresh perfect makeup, sky high heels, and carry L.V. purses.... the complete package is wonderfully mismatched.
The second type of hair I see on girls my age is the 'coiffed' hair. These works of art are the stereotypical, modelesque configurations that seem like they took hours, or a trip to the salon, to achieve. Silky straight locks that would probably show you your own reflection if you got close enough. Perfectly spiraled bouncy curls. Wonderfully scented! Every hair is in place, usually around celebrity oversized sunglasses, and it seems that these girls could either be hiding a famous face or on the way to a photo shoot. Again what's odd to me is that these girls, some of which have the sleek outfit to match the high fashion hair, are mostly dressed in skinny jeans, boots, a pea-coat, and a scarf with a longchamp bag on one arm. Their hair says salon, their clothes say typical French girl. It's another, albeit less glaring, mismatch.
The third, and by far the tiniest, category is the inbetween hair a.k.a. the mix between coiffed and club hair. Some examples are oily and flat, with only the slightest vestiges of what must have been coiffed. The curl is still present in the ends, or in a few strands, and the hair still smells pretty good, but it's clear that it's time for a shower and some clarifying shampoo. From the other end of the spectrum we have the messy ponytail/bun crowd that has not only managed to make the ponytail-bun messy, but the hair pulled back toward the bun is knotted and frizzed and there are little fuzzies stuck to the hair that hasn't managed to escape the ponytail holder. These heads are also in need of a shower and some de-tangle spray.

I wish I could pull off one style or the other, but my hair remains typically American, whatever that is. It's either very clean and attempting to be straight via my straightener (which zaps the shine) OR it's dirty and the natural beach waves have devolved into lazy bedhead waves.

There's the saying, "If you can't beat them, join them." but I wonder what follows from "if you can't achieve the hair...." ????

Monday, January 24, 2011

missing a color

I'm not the worst young adult out there in terms of feeding myself. I stay away from junk food (except for oreos on a every weekend basis), I take a vitamin daily, I stick to fruit juice, milk, or water (coca cola is a rarity), and I try to make sure I have meat every night for dinner. However, there is a serious lack of green in my life and I just wonder if it isn't the cause for my sudden surplus of premature grey hairs. I have no idea if this is true....but it feels like it could be true.

I love salads but don't ever make them. I adore lima beans, green peas, and green beans but never buy them. Broccoli and I go way back with a side of ranch dressing, but do they have Ranch dressing in France? I cannot put a finger on my green issue. I was pondering it today with the conclusion being that I haven't eaten green in MONTHS!!!

I gotta get some green in my life.

~Tam in Toulouse

Dream Vacation day 9 - Toulouse

After the fairy tale, yummy food, touristy part of my recent trip to Italy I was forced to come back to Toulouse and prove my french knowledge in exams. I'm going to leave out blogging about the two surprise exams I had for my English Lit and my Eng/Fren. Translation classes. I'm going to pass over my exam in ancient french on the morphology of various words into modern french. Let's dive straight into the vacation aspect of that first week back in class shall we?
Monday Ross found his way to Le Mirail for a lunch date with me. With our croque monsieurs and our fries from a local joint we huddled on the cold concrete steps inside the Arch building. I lamented my surprise exam; he sympathetically and frequently joined in with , "I'm sorry." I showed him around campus a bit, enough for him to agree that it's not attractive or welcoming, then left him up to his own devices when I had to head back into more exams. Two more exams were finished and I ended my academic Monday by meeting Ross outside my school.
It's a funny thing, the mere presence of someone you know waiting somewhere for you; it instantly brings  a smile to your face to see that person.
Ross and I went to my apartment for me to drop off school books, then headed to catch a movie and some dinner. He was hesitant about my insistence that we spend the entire evening out on the town since this was my exam week, but I assured him that after a day of exams I just needed to completely shut off my brain. Besides there were only reviews in my classes for Tuesday anyway.
Before the movie I wanted Ross to eat a crepe. When if France, eat a crepe - that's my motto anyway.  We tried sitting down inside a creperie at Capitol but were overlooked by the waiters for those buying drinks and more expensive things. Finally fed up with an order that usually takes five minutes on the street, we abandoned our table and sought crepes outside with the vendor. Ross opted for nutella, I for strawberry jam, and we quickly ate them during the cold walk to the movie theatre at Place Wilson.
Our options for an American film were very slim so we picked 'The Tourist' hoping we'd get lots of action. It was not the action film the trailer had it made out to be. Instead of spy action, Ross and I sat through a two hour chick flick watching Angelina try to suppress her warrior woman air she usually plays and Johnny Depp act awkward and unsure of himself. I started putting on my coat with ten minutes still left in the movie which surprised Ross. I think all guys think that females love all chick flicks, but that's just not the case.
From the theatre we traveled up the street to Jean Juares to 'Pizzeria Vecchio' for a very late dinner. I hadn't had enough Italian food quite yet, and apparently the restaurant served Italian style pizza. The google reviews did not disappoint! Vecchio served a really yummy pizza dinner which Ross and I both devoured with satisfaction. Desert was ice cream in fruity flavors like passion fruit and lemon which helped lessen the heavy, cheesy, pizza taste - not that the pizzas weren't good, but ending the meal with a fruity flavor was better. It was a really full Monday, and I was exhausted by the time we finished dinner past 11 pm, but having Ross in Toulouse just plain made everything better.

Saturday, January 22, 2011

Semester 1 DONE!

I've now been in Toulouse for almost 5 months and have completed my first semester. Throughout my stay here there have been lots of frustrating situations. There have been too many days to count where the loneliness has really gotten to me and I've considered hopping a plane to America for an unplanned visit. Multiple friends have had to pep talk me out of tears at various moments. My blog has been filled with jaded unhappiness. Despite ALL OF THAT, and it was definitely a lot to get used to here, I'm glad I'm here and I look forward to this next semester in Toulouse.

December really amped up my happiness level: I gained new French friends, knew the city, finally got used to being fashionable every single day, I was looking forward to Ross coming to visit, the Christmas spirit was in the air, and my work load was keeping me from being lonely.

So maybe those things helped, but I think more so what has helped my mood is just knowing that I've progressed on so many levels during the past 5 months. I came here completely by myself while french people from the next town over were dragging their parents around to help them navigate getting an apartment and enrolling in school - I succeeded tout seul.
 I took real, difficult french courses, not courses for foreign students. I'm in class with ALL native French speakers. I have taken exams.I have done an oral exam. My vocabulary has grown. I can speak without thinking about it beforehand (the conjugations are never going to be perfect though). I can read novels without looking up every other word. I formed a rapport with my professors. Finally, in later November and through December I could understand all that my professors and classmates were saying. I understand how and when to pay all my bills, go grocery shopping, how to wash my clothes here, etc. I found a doctor I like, made the acquaintance of most of the business owners on my block, and secured a summer job back in the states. I also went all the way to Paris to kick butt on the GRE general and GRE LIT tests. Oh and I went to Italy and managed not to get pick pocketed or  lose anything, and somehow learn a bit of touristy Italian.

When someone is climbing a mountain there are going to be glorious moments and there are going to be complaint filled moments - but what matters is seeing the view from the top and being able to say, "I did it".

I look at my remaining time here with positivity. In February I begin new classes (which may or may not be fun) except this time I'll have friends to sit by and I'll be able to understand what's expected of me. In early March my first Spring Break arrives - more European travels will happen! In late April another Spring Break gives me time to study for exams and visit the states. Then I return for May exams and soaking up the last few weeks I'll have in Toulouse.

Cheers to 5 months done, 4 to go, and an unforgettable year in France!!!

~Tam in Toulouse

Sunday, January 16, 2011

Dream Vacation day 7/8 - Milan (pt 5)/ back to Toulouse

Across from the Duomo sat a little gelatteria. Even though we'd just had a huge meal, neither Ross nor I wanted to leave Milan without another gelatto experience. A girl had just finished sweeping the shop when we entered. My boyfriend and I gestured awkwardly in order to secure tastes of the ones we thought we might order. I was busy tasting a dark chocolate when I heard a very odd sound, the sound of breaking glass. It didn't immediately register that the sound had come from a few feet away. I thought more so that something in the back of the store had broken or a bottle had been broken outside. No, no such luck. I glanced over to Ross to find him staring at the ground. My eyes traveled downward....downward...THE RISOTTO! All over the just cleaned floor the risotto contents and shards of glass were mixed together. Ross apologized. I laughed and laughed. He laughed. He offered to clean up the mess. We apologized, purchased our gelatto, then left the store. A last couple of minutes spent admiring the Duomo, then it was back to our lovely hotel in order to get some sleep for the early morning to soon arrive.

Of course the next morning was early. We had a full day of travel ahead of us. Ross isn't as easy in the mornings, but his slow self and my need for more time to pack and get ready meant that we met for breakfast at the same time. I discovered that I loved the swiss-like cheese the hotel had set out wrapped around thin slices of salami. I made two little cheese/salami sandwiches while Ross opted for fruit. Onto the metro. Onto the train. I don't really remember the first leg of the train ride. I slept with my back against Ross and my knees up in the seat against the window. The next leg was similar to the experience we'd had coming to Italy. We ate sandwiches in a little cafe inside the next train station which was nice, but standing for half of the next Train ride until some seats opened up was not so nice. Finally we were back in France for the third leg of the trip. I'm glad Ross was keeping up with our transportation because I was tired and needed to study for final exams the next day (Monday) at Le Mirail. While we waited in some French train station for our last leg we play madlibs and people watched. He and I also opted for more sandwiches to take on the train for dinner. The last leg was equally spent between crosswords together and me studying for exams while Ross zoned out to his Ipod. We arrived in Toulouse too late for any restaurants or any more studying. Early to bed then early to rise for me the next day. Ross and I made plans for him to visit Le Miral at lunch time for me to show him my school and grab a quick bite.

Dream Vacation day 7 - Milan (Final Dinner)

I'm dedicating an entire blog post to the most delicious meal I have ever put into my mouth. I've eaten at the 560 Wolfgang Puck in Dallas, I've eaten at several pricy places in both France and Italy....but the final meal in Milan was perfection. Due to it being New Year's day, the Maio was giving it's customers several free items that Ross and I had no idea about, but which we certainly enjoyed.
First we were offered free champagne to begin our experience. Our waiter tried to help us through the menu, but left me impossibly confused. I saw Milanese risotto and immediately wanted the cheesy goodness, but I was nervous that perhaps it would be different at this restaurant. I don't even remember what I originally ordered, but the order was quickly changed when the waitress uncorking my wine explained that Milanese risotto was exactly what Ross had had at the Santa Marta. Relieved to have changed my order, happy with the free champagne and wine, I sat talking with my boyfriend and soaking up the atmosphere.
Without ordering them, appetizers appeared before us. It looked like a think chunk of salami, breaded on the outer ring on a bed of small grey beans. I was worried. Next to our table, less than a foot away, sat two Italians enjoying their food. They had already figured out we were tourists from our phrase book decoding of the menu. Now they explained that the appetizer was a 'good luck' dish for the New Year, a freebie. They encouraged us to try the dish, exclaiming how wonderful it would be. They were right. The meat was a little spicy and delicious with the breading. The beans, lentils, were the perfect pairing for it. Needless to say, we cleaned our plates quickly.
When our food arrived  I was carried away to food heaven. A plate, bigger than my head, completely filled with bright yellow-orange Milanese risotto and tiny little specks of red (beef marrow) sat before me. It was simple, elegant, and out of this world! Ross watched me in amusement as I took bite after bite, closing my eyes at times and grinning with bliss. Since coming to France I've missed macaroni and cheese more than I can explain. This thick, cheesy risotto was macaroni and cheese taste on steroids!!! It was SO SO GOOD!Ross was quite happy with his own dish, parmesan-encrusted beef fillet. Both of us commented on how "fantastic" our food was. We took a bit longer than usual to eat, taking our time and getting caught up in conversation, but soon I'd finished both my wine and my risotto and wanted dessert. We settled on 'fruit pie' just for the fun of not really knowing what in the world a 'fruit pie' would be. The pie arrived, but it wasn't pie at all! A little pound cake sat on a bed of fresh fruit slices. The petite round cake was topped with whipped cream, then a few more slices of fruit. Sticking up about four inches, a beautiful piece of white chocolate with milk chocolate painted circles was spiked into the whipped creme. Next to that a little sugar sculpture also rose out of the top. It was like a piece of food art! And of course it was light, fresh, tart but sweet...in one word, it was wonderful.
After the dessert the restaurant then placed before us another plate (another freebie). Two tiny raspberry tarts, one milk chocolate, one gingerbread cookie, and one vanilla macaroon. The five were consumed immediately. Stuffed, and on a glorious food high, we paid the check and put on our coats. Then the waitress brought over two jars and wished us a Happy New Year. RISOTTO! The jars were filled with the dry mix and the instructions for making it! We'd been searching for something foreign to get Ross' mom and the restaurant had just given us the perfect gift! As we sat in front of the Duomo, me taking picture after picture, I was sad to be saying goodbye to Milan but happy to have experienced so many wonderful things.

Dream Vacation day 7 - Milan (pt 4)

Earlier in the day, between eating lunch and heading for the Brera district, Ross and I had tried to catch tickets for the movie Tron...(yes they play movies in English in Europe). The theatre near the Duomo did not have it in English.
While at the hotel, after the pastry break, Ross and I asked the desk guy to call to the other two theatres in Milan to see if perhaps they were showing Tron in English. Seeing the movie had been the major point on our agenda for the evening. Sadly, neither theatre had the movie in English.
Since the pastries didn't really curb our appetite for dinner, and there were still things I wanted to see before leaving Milan, we were only momentarily off-put by not getting tickets to the movie. He and I left the hotel for our last assault on Milan.
I wanted to check out a few more churches, the Palazzo Reale, the piazza Babila, and the via Orefici. All of the things were gathered around the Duomo plaza anyway, and we HAD to see the duomo one last time before we left Milan anyway. From the Cordusio metro stop we began our stroll down via Orefici (a medieval street) which supposedly showed the medieval/renaissance influence in Milan. We were pleasantly surprised to be walking down a market street. Tents lined the street showing artisan works and bursting with food and wine. Ross and I agreed that we'd take our time checking out all the tents. He stopped in an olives tent and tried a huge, bright green olive. His face didn't screw up at the taste so I assume it was an agreeable olive. My eyes fell on more chocolate and pastry tents, cheese tents, sausage/salami tents, etc. Some other people would have been interested in the tourist tents overflowing with 'I Love Milan' t-shirts and magnets. Not us, we were too into the food. One non-food tent filled with wood work did catch our eye. Beautiful inlaid wooden chess sets made us stop to appreciate them. We meandered through the market, eventually exiting into the Duomo plaza.
I thought the two churches I wanted to see (Satiro & Fedel) would be pretty and lit up. We found the first nestled between commercial buildings, almost hidden from view. From there we passed the Palazzo Reale toward the piazza Babila. Although we'd technically already seen the Babila plaza since the second H&M location was located there, I still wanted to go back and see the entire plaza. Coming back toward the Duomo, in order to hit up the second church I wanted to see, it was necessary to go down the side street next to the Rinascente department store. As Ross and I walked down the street we saw an open door with line of people. Listed next to the door were the names of all the Rinascente 7th story restaurants. Were the Rinascente restaurants open even though the department store was closed? We stepped through the doorway to find two elevators which delivered us into the restaurant level of the store. It WAS open!!! Just to see our dinner options we explored all the restaurant's menus....I was agreeable to anything honestly. I was starving. Ross was a bit pickier and wanted something truly Italian before leaving Italy the next morning.
One more touristy thing to see still, we departed the Rinascente, keeping it in mind for dinner, then continued down the street toward the Fedel church. On the way, we passed a couple pizzaria type restaurants. Ross was more interested than I so again we stopped to view the menus. When we finally reached the church I was highly disappointed, but didn't say so out loud. Instead of a pretty church, an intimidating structure loomed over the tiny square in front of it. Dominated by gigantic columns and quite uninviting, the building didn't resemble any church I'd ever seen. Nonetheless I have to admit it did have a certain powerful beauty to it. My hunger kept the church visit quite short, and we could only see the outside anyway, then it was off to dinner finally. Ross let me choose the place and I ended up choosing something inside the Rinascente. There was nowhere I'd rather be our last night in Milan but sitting level with the Duomo spires. We dined at the Maio restaurant.

Saturday, January 15, 2011

Dream Vacation day 7 - Milan (pt 3)

At our metro stop, Cadorna (though Ross and I had a habit of calling it Cordona), we rose on the escalator to see the tents that had been closed all week now open. They were normal tarp tents set up around the metro and the tiny plaza Cadorna. On impulse we decided to see what the tents contained. I think I was never so happy to see pastries and chocolates in my life! While we'd been searching for the last couple hours for my chocolatiers, here at our hotel metro stop sat a tent overflowing with pastries and delicious sweet things. Ross saw my eyes light up and I think he knew we'd be buying 'snacks'. The options seemed endless. Chocolate filled doughnut sandwiches, marzipan fruits, chocolate dipped sugar coated pastry ovals, nougat squares, peanut brittle....my mouth watered over all the sugary decadence. Finally we chose three treats. Neither of us had ever tried marzipan, so Ross nabbed a marzipan apple. I then chose a pastry formed into an open cylinder, filled with a white cream, and topped with chocolate and two cherries. The last was a square pastry with chocolate inside and powdered sugar and almond shavings on the outside. We couldn't stop with just that first tent. 
Ross and I moved through the other tents with little interest at their wares. We didn't need hats or pj's or hot wine. Then, before us, loomed a bright tent with rows of hand made chocolates. Poor Ross, there was no tearing me away. Charging ahead straight for the truffles Ross watched as I drooled over every single identification card. Spiced Rum, vanilla, dark chocolate, caramel....yum yum YUM! I picked out a coffee flavored dark chocolate truffle, Ross chose a snowy coconut white chocolate one, and we compromised on vanilla for our third. By now it was dark, and though the hours after lunch had been a total loss as far as sight seeing had gone, I was pleased with our tent purchases and the hours we'd spend just walking and talking in Milan.
As we neared our hotel it dawned on us that we needed to see the Maria. I was really nervous the church would be closed, but thankfully her doors were open. We entered the quite space with other tourists. Some admired the nativity scene, some were in the smaller chapel praying, others will milling about just like us. Our visit was fairly quick. I thought there might be a reproduction of the Last Supper or pamphlets about it but there was no reference to it at all. I took pictures of the decorated walls and ceiling, thinking to myself that it looked like a very talented child had been allowed to run free in the space marking wherever and however he liked. It was a very pretty church even without the sunlight lighting up the stain glass. To the hotel we finally went. Finally, some rest for our feet. While Ross ran up to the room to use the facilities and grab our soda drinks from Rinascente, I was assigned the task of asking the desk guy for a dinner suggestion. Ross wouldn't allow me to go up to my room for fear that we'd end up napping. I didn't say so, but he was right. I was quite tired and we still had dinner and the night ahead of us.
The guy at the desk suggested a Monti street nearby for food but oddly refused to name any particular restaurants. In fact, he intimidated me with his formal manner and his lack of smiles, so I just sat back down on a sofa in the lounge and marked it on the map while waiting for Ross. Sitting there in the lounge Ross and I ate the first pastry (the one with almonds) and tried our soda drinks. To my disappointment I had bought a ginger drink. I don't like ginger and I didn't like the the drink. The first few sips were bearable, just the first few though. My boyfriend, who has amazing luck at blind food and drink orders, had gotten exactly what we thought. His drink was something between sprite and lemonade, and a yummy choice indeed. next, we moved on to the marzipan apple. Marzipan turned out to be the same as cake icing, something I can only handle in small doses, so Ross ate more of the apple. Still, we could only finish half of the heavy little sugar bomb. The third pastry and the truffles were saved for the next day's train ride.

Dream Vacation day 7 - Milan (pt 2)

Off the metro at the Duomo Plaza, we passed through the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II to the plaza for La Scala. I think I expected banners or billboards or huge posters maybe depicting opera and ballet performances. Instead we stood before an elegant but simple stone building. A building that looked closed. While we gazed at our closed building a long line had formed across the plaza at the Municipal Palace. There was an artist's work on display that had people excited. Ross and I weren't interested. Down the side street next to La Scala we had hoped to find a lunch spot that had been lauded in one of the guidebooks Ross consulted. At the address for the restaurant seemed to be a little boutique selling antique music composition and posters dedicated to old Hollywood. Cafe Verdi. Well at least the place served food, but he and I were both confused about why this cafe had the address of Ross' pizzeria and why a 'cafe', for all appearances, looked like a boutique. I led the way inside hoping to find clarity. Stacks of paper, books upon books, posters lining the walls, larger prints leaning up against the legs of tables. The place looked more like the college dorm room shared by an English major, an art student, and a musical genius.....it was delightful madness packed into about 20 feet and two stories. To the left of the entrance, past some merchandise huddled a few tables. From there an impossibly narrow staircase vaulted itself pack toward the entrance. In front of us, again past the merchandise, a man prepared sandwiches and hot chocolate behind a bar. Under the stairs a woman kept guard behind the cash register. When I looked at her with bewilderment she said, "You want lunch?" Yes indeed we did want lunch. Up the stairs she motioned. At the top of the stairs less than a dozen little tables were arranged with almost no room between them. Ross and I were seated by a slender, authoritative waitress (who was handling all the tables in the cafe single-handedly, and given menus. I was less interested in the food and more interested in the charm of the cafe. All my favorite things gathered into such a tiny, lively place! I peeped down into the shop from our table and watched people enter and exit with books, chocolates, sandwiches, and various other things. Ross ordered a spicy salami pizza and I settled on vegetable soup and pasta. There's never been a point in our relationship where I've been self-conscious of eating in front of Ross and starved myself on date night salads. No, I've always been open about my love for food. It was fascinating to watch the waitress shout below to the lady at the cash register or the man behind the bar, asking if certain dishes were still in stock or if certain ingredients were in certain recipes. We sat among Russians, British people, Italians and Germans....I suppose the mix of languages was the reason that the menus were all in English and the waitress spoke English with most of the surrounding customers. The food was yummy. It was not as impressive as our pizza bread dishes of the day before or as nice as the dinner the night before, but the food was still wonderful and full flavored. Something that Ross and I learned about Italy was that the portions are huge if you order an entree and the appetizers can make for a small meal themselves. For once, I ate my pasta faster than Ross finished his dish (he's frustratingly fast at eating). After we'd both stuffed ourselves, we visited La Scala once more just to be sure we got our fill of the famous Theatre from the outside. Then it was on to the Brera District.
In Milan, the Brer district is known for being trendy, having great shopping, and being a general hang out for the younger adult crowd. Neither of us new what we'd find open, or if we'd find anything open, but we thought that Brera might be a fun place to at least walk around the streets a bit. Ross and I tried the Brera museum (Pinacotheque de Brera) and the San Marco church, but both were closed. I had found a chocolate shop 'in the heart of the Brera' in my guidebook that looked promising; that was closed as well. We ended up walking ourselves lost by taking in the architecture and chatting about different topics. Since the Brera district was bust we decided to try to find another chocolatier on street Corso di Porta Romana, a long street south of the historic center and across town from where we currently were.
Romana was a really long street which, when beginning the walk to the chocolatier's shop, didn't seem so bad. Sure, everything was closed and this part of town was not pretty at all, but when we reached the shop I had faith we'd be rewarded for the effort. So we walked and walked and walked some more. Still we talked of this and that the entire time. We were so engaged in talking with each other that we passed the closed chocolatier's show without immediately realizing it. Suddenly I whipped around, looked at the address, looked up at the name over the closed door, and groaned. The shop was completely dark. Now I felt completely responsible for our tired feet. I'd suggested the Brera museum and these chocolatiers, and everything was closed because it was January 1st. We drug ourselves and our disappointment back onto the metro headed for our hotel to regroup and recharge.

Dream Vacatin day 7 - Milan (pt 1)

The next morning Ross and I put on our Milan game faces. We'd had a very full first day in Milan already but the following morning meant our second, and last, attempt at seeing 'everything'.  I'd planned on beginning the morning going shopping  for a late Christmas present for Ross, but he talked me out of it. I guess I was happier being with him sightseeing for the morning instead of shopping for him, but I was disheartened that he wouldn't let me get him a present. After breakfast and showers our first stop was the church across from our hotel. The Maria del Grazie was home to the Last Supper (but you had to have a reservation). Ross and I entered the church and, to our surprise, walked in on a mass. A priest near the entrance looked at us, and all those recently entering with suspicion. A sign clearly said 'No Tourists During Services'. Adopting our most Milan strut Ross and I found our places in one of the last pews. The church was on the small side but a true treasure. All the surfaces were covered in colorful drawings and symbols. The frowning priest watched Ross and I gazing around at all the decoration but kept his distance. I noticed, and had noticed already, that all the elderly women in Milan seemed to wear fur coats and clutch a Louis Vuitton purse. Once I mentioned my observation to Ross we were vigilant to watch the people entering the church. With a poke and the whisper 'fur' coat, we'd add another to our count throughout our time in the church. The 'fur coat (& Louis Vuitton)' game was played the entire day. We left the church, the mass was lasting far too long, vowing to come back before it closed that evening, and we headed for the metro.
We'd already seen Castle Sforzesco in the dark (twice) but we wanted to explore it by day. Ross kept a lookout for the obnoxious flower men and made jokes about my 'hostility' toward them the night before. Instead of flower men, the square in front of the castle was dotted with string bracelet men. "Free! From Africa. Support Africa" the men said as they quite literally pushed the bracelets at me while I tried to take pictures of the castle and the huge fountain in the square. One bold bracelet man laid the little freebie on my shoulder which I promptly put into the basket of a nearby street entertainer. This seemed to amuse the man who retrieved the bracelet and proceeded to follow Ross and I with it, motioning for me to take it. Though we were in broad daylight I felt threatened. Ross, with his arm around my waist, turned suddenly and used his 'harsh' voice, telling the man to 'back off'. Then we were through the outer wall and into the castle's outer courtyard. It was clear that the castle wasn't the 'Harry Potter' kind. No rising spires. No maze of corridors and staircases. This was a fortification castle meant for defending those within. Thick walls, few windows, and everything laid out clearly, the place was pretty but imposing at the same time. It was New Year's Day which meant that the castle wasn't officially open for tours in the hallways, but Ross and I were able to see the inner courtyard complete with a rectangle reflection pool. Lots of other tourists were visiting the castle as well. Perhaps the strangest thing we saw were the brides. Multiple, Asian brides were in the middle of photos. One was getting into a limo in front of the castle. A couple more were walking inside the outer courtyard. Ross was confused and interested in why all these Asian brides were around the castle. I was appalled that they were all dragging the hems of their gowns in the dirt without seeming to mind. We exited the other side of the castle without reaching a logical conclusion about the presence of the brides.
Through the castle the path opened into a big, pretty public park, Parc Sempione. Before entering into the actual park Ross and I were caught by another tourist couple. We struck a photo deal; we'd capture one of them (with the Arco della Pace - Arch) in the distance and they'd do the same for us. The view was glorious. Across the green of the park the vanilla arch was crystal clear against the blue background of the sky. My trust guidebook mentioned a tower (Torre Branca) that Ross has wanted to visit inside the park, but to our dismay the 'work of art' turned out to be an ugly metal structure that was closed. Of course...because everything was closed right? Again I felt bad that Ross and I were visiting such a fabulous Italian city and it felt like most things we wanted to see we would not be able to see. Kindly, my boyfriend assured me that it was "no big deal" and that walking through the park was cool enough. We'd crossed the park from the castle, and finally stood at the arch on the other end of it. Triumphal arches are always quite beautiful and historically interesting. The Arch in Paris allows visitors to travel to the top! This one, which only drew a couple of people while Ross and I were there, was less interesting. After being forced into a photo by my boyfriend, he and I passed through the park once more, around the outside of the castle (instead of through it again) and back onto the metro toward La Scala and lunch.

Friday, January 14, 2011

Dream Vacation day 6 - Milan (New Year's Celebration)

We were both out of breath from running but we were both content. Around us people set off sparklers, roman candles, and firecrackers. Colors flashed from both the fireworks and the light show as I tried my best to capture a self-taken photo with people jostling the camera. I've decided to keep the fuzzy attempts since they remind me of how much fun it was trying. The moment was spectacular. Fireworks lighting up just barely over the top of the clock tower. The castle's lights going wild. Being pressed into a huge crowd of people, most of the faces upturned to the brilliance, and feeling the excitement and joy shared by everyone. People sang, shouted what I suppose was "Happy New Year" back and forth. I was awkwardly trying to capture pictures of the fireworks while at the same time repeatedly turning toward Ross just to look at him. We were in Milan. We were on a vacation. We were celebrating the New Year together. We'd just had a nice dinner. We still had days and days together to hang out. I was happier than I've ever been. I couldn't say all of it at once, but I was thinking it all at once every time I turned around and buried myself into his hug. I think maybe he thought I was a bit silly. As the fireworks died down Ross and I moved forward in the crowd to get a better view of the castle. I asked a random girl to please take a photo of us. She did a brilliant job so that now I have the perfect photo to remember the beginning of 2011. She captured Ross and I squeezing each other in a tight hug with huge smiles on our faces. The fireworks ended and the crowd quickly began to break up. Ross and I had had an unforgettable night so back to the hotel for some sleep was our plan. It had been an amazing day and night, a very full day and night, in Milan!!!

Dream Vacation day 6 - Milan (pt 2)

The other levels we'd passed on the way up to lunch were all clothes (and one level of home linens). Ross wanted to see the Armani suits...I wanted to check out the Burberry apparel. When we left the store it was turning dark. We must have spent over 2 hours inside! I still desperately wanted gloves and a sweater dress or two. A block away we found H&M. I'm not crazy, I know that guys abhor shopping, so I tried to be really fast. Two sweater dresses and then into the dressing room. To the register (no need to change sizes). Done. I was proud of myself for being so efficient. There were a couple items I hadn't found and the sales clerk had informed me that another H&M with the rest of the apparel was just another block away. Ross was really kind and allowed himself to be dragged to the other location. Same drill. A girl on a mission, I grabbed what I was looking for, slipped into the dressing room to make sure the items fit and made the purchase. Immediately upon exiting I put on my new purple gloves. Outside it seemed like people were already preparing for the New Year. Firecracker sounds made me jump a few times as we headed toward the metro.
We arrived at the Castle Sforesco at the perfect moment. The entire front facade of the castle, including the clock tower, lit up in a light show accompanied by music. Ross and I watched the ten minute show. We both loved it! He said it would be really cool to see what they'd do for the New Year and I thought so too, it seemed like we had our spot for ringing in 2011. Although we were both ready for a break before dinner we went a bit closer to the castle. Men selling singular roses and bracelets were hounding everyone nearby. At first we were kind with our refusals. However, one the light show started up again on the hour I was quite hostile toward their annoying pleas to buy something. Ross found my 'mom' face and my hostility toward mere flower sellers quite amusing. Thrilled to have seen two mini light shows and the castle at night (strung in white lights with blue twinkling ones on the top of the clock tower) but also tired from the full day, we headed back to the hotel.
I heard a phrase from Ross' mouth that I hadn't heard in a very long time. "Let's nap". I was overjoyed because I exist off naps like a child, but Ross hates them. He literally gets into an irritable angry mood if he takes a nap. It's odd to me since I love naps so much...Anyway we napped for exactly an hour to my great happiness. When it was time to wake up I popped out of bed to redo my makeup for our New Year's Eve dinner. I waited for Ross to moan, groan, and complain about feeling 'more' tired but he didn't. I guess we both needed that precious hour of sleep after all.
The restaurant at which Ross had secured reservations, Ristorante Acqua Di Mare, was right around the corner from our hotel. If all worked out perfectly we'd have a nice dinner then grab the metro to the castle for fireworks and fun. The restaurant was alive with energy when we stepped in. It was also packed with people. We hung up our coats and were ushered to our seats by the manager. We couldn't understand a word of the 'set' menu given to us by a brunette waitress who brought us our water. When we tried asking questions she handed us to the manager who brought two regular menus. Ross pulled out the trusty dictionary and we got to the task of figuring out what we wanted to eat. Next to our little table a large family, all spoiling the smallest member - a 2 or 3 yr old girl, went through plate after plate of mouthwatering food. Soon we'd chosen our dishes, except that when we tried to order them from the manager he pushed the set menu on us again. Quite hungry by now and exasperated by the obvious miscommunication that was going on I started to get a bit moody. I couldn't handle, with civility, the busy manager again. I told Ross if he came back Ross could do all the talking. The third time is the charm right? This third attempt we were able to order some food. I opted for pointing at the next table over at some one's pasta. Ross chose steak and potatoes. The food was wonderful. I think my boyfriend was happier having steak at this restaurant out of all the places we'd been. He said they cooked it through a bit more than his steak in Toulouse. I didn't think I would, but somehow I scarfed down my pasta and then sat staring at Ross' disappearing plate. He was full. I was not. When the waitress returned I ordered what I thought was a side dish of potatoes like Ross'. Instead, I had ordered hand made potato chips. The time flew as we enjoyed the meal. Even though he was 'full' Ross found the space to help me finish my potato chips. Before we knew it the waitresses were handing out bottles of champagne to every table. Oh no! It was almost midnight! I suddenly felt like Cinderella. I wanted Ross and I to be at the castle when the clock struck twelve. Hurrying Ross out of his seat and rushing the waitress for the check, I didn't even notice that the Italian family we'd sat by for the last couple of hours wished us a Happy New Year in Italian and English. Ross wished them one as well. Then we were off, running like mad to make the metro. I looked at my cell every thirty seconds. Waiting for the train the minutes turned to double zero. I stopped Ross from fidgeting by declaring a "Happy New Year" and throwing my arms around him. The metro ride to the Castle was really short and we were off again, bounding through the streets and the crowd to get a good view of the light show and the fireworks going off at the Castle.

Dream Vacation day 6 - MIlan (pt 1)

Waking up the next morning was difficult. The only thing motivating me out of bed was the thought of free hotel breakfast. The only thing forcing Ross out of bed was the need for us to have dinner reservations. Since we knew, thanks to the night before, that lots of restaurants were closed we thought it would be best if we got reservations asap in the morning for a New Year's Eve meal. To breakfast we went. The food was almost identical to the spread at Hotel Alpi Resort in Turin except that this hotel included chocolate muffins, more fresh fruit (KIWIS!!!) and breakfast cake similar to pound cake. Since we'd dashed to breakfast at the very last minute we still needed to actually get ready for the day. After our meal I opted for the shower while Ross nabbed a dinner reservation. It came as little surprise that Ross got reservations, took a shower, and was completely ready to leave the hotel in the same amount of time it too me to just catch my shower. I would say we left the hotel when we were ready but really Ross had to wait for me.
Milan is a huge city. There's absolutely no way to shove every tourist sight into two days. These two facts Ross and I already knew before getting to Milan, so we had no unrealistic expectations. Our first day we'd spend on the city's historic center. The Duomo we'd seen the night before now looked even more impressive in the sunlight. The plaza just in front of the Duomo was teeming with other tourists and panhandlers; it was clearly the heart of the city.
The inside was really interesting, a definite gem. Paintings hung inbetween columns and on the walls, their backs covered in scarlet cloth which made them seem all the more impressive. Rising to a dizzying height if you stared long enough the columns and the stainglass windows towered in comparison to the tiny people. Up one side, around the altar, and then down the other side  in normal 'tourists in a chuch' fashion. Ross was fascinated with a sunken altar under the actual altar. There were windows at foot level that one could look through to see this small, secretive chamber. I imagined something out of a Dan Brown novel happening around the half-hidden altar. Ross I think was more interested in it from a religious and historical point of view. I could have sat all day watching the devout light taper candles for loved ones. Each prayed briefly over the flickering tables of lights and then attempted to secure their candle among the other without burning themselves. Something about the peace of the warm glow and the idea that just a candle can have such meaning ....it moves me. Just as we were about to exit the church I slightly yanked on Ross' hand. Nope, I wasn't ready to go just yet even though we'd probably already spent an hour in the vast hall. Ross led me to a pew where we sat for a while longer. When we stepped back out into the daylight it was like the world came to life again. People talking, cell phones ringing, children running about...I was both relieved to enter back into the world and a bit sad to leave the quiteness of the Duomo.
The doors to the church were giant, larger than any doors I've ever seen, so I absolutely had to get a comparison shot on the camera between teeny Ross up against the seemingly infinite doors. It took a couple tries but the picture turned out perfectly. The Victor Emanual Galleria was in sight so that's where we visited next. Since neither one of us was interested in shopping at Prada or Louis Vuitton...we turned our gaze upward to the beautiful architecture and glass work. If I ever suddenly hit the jackpot I think the Galleria would become more excited. So maybe we wouldn't be buying anything, but walking through the elegant space was treat enough. Next, we were off to the Rinascente 7 story department store conveniently, (and oddly, in my opinion) located next to the Duomo. Ross had read about it online, I'd gotten the scoop from a friend, but either way both of us wanted to be inside 7 stories of retail madness. Walking into the store I had a little bit of doubt. The place didn't look SO big. Where were all the stories? First on the shopping agenda... I needed moisturizer since we'd been out so much in the cold air. The Clinique lady, who spoke really good English, helped me purchase some moisturizer. Then it was off to explore all 7 stories of the store. From the bottom stories below the ground we were walking every aisle and checking out all the very expensive things. Before finishing all 7 stories our hunger got to us. So, skipping some of the exploration in favor of doing it after lunch, we took escalators to the tippy 7th story top. From the instant my eyes drank n the top floor I knew I never wanted to leave. This floor was instantly my favorite place in Milan. A mini grocery story, a candy/chocolate counter, smoothie bar, steak restaurant, sushi, restaurant, other Italian restaurants....hours must be spent here indeed. I was all the more charmed because the top floor sat even with the cathedral spires. Every menu was glanced over. The little grocery part was walked through, twice. Ross was looking for something culinary as a late Christmas gift for his mother. The initial pass through nothing caught our eyes. On to some yummy food. My boyfriend found Obika (the mozzarella bar) online or in a travel book. When I heard mozzarella bar my mind conjured an endless supply of differently seasoned mozzarella sticks with various sauces and side dishes. The restaurant was way better than my assumption! The entire menu looked scrumptious! It was a difficult decision but we both ordered mozzarella on pizza bread. It sounds very simple maybe too simple, but what the waitress brought was a complex, delicious dish. On a round piece of thick, toasted bread was heaped cheese, meat, veggies, and other ingredients. I loved the eggplant/mozzarella/caper/fresh tomatoes mountain of yumminess that I got. Ross got  a softer creamy cheese/zucchini/tomatoes mix. We devoured our lunch in no time and were ready to finish our assault on the department store. Unfortunately our waitress had disappeared. Finally, having paid the check we decided to make another pass through the grocery story aisles to see if anything caught our eyes with another pass. We were supposed to be looking for Ross' mom a gift. Instead we found some sodas without flavors but with scantily glad girls on the bottle. I chose a fiery redhead, I thought maybe I'd be getting a 'Big Red' type soda. He chose a blonde on a blue bottle which we thought might be a 'Sprite' or lemonade concoction. With our purchases we continued exploring the Rinascente.

The Little Things (Turin)

I wanted to take a moment in my trip memories at large to recall some details. Whenever I think of Turin I will remember the views, maybe the big things we did, and I will fondly think of the food - wow! But before all of that I think I shall remember the following...
 Without television, and away from free internet, Ross and I had lots of serious and silly conversations, almost as if we were trying to fit into two weeks the conversations we'd neglected for four months.
We played mad libs and cards and did crosswords while traveling.
In Turin I must have stopped and drooled over every single chocolate, pastry, and gelatto shop's window display. No matter where we were headed or if we'd already eaten, Ross would allow me to stop and stare at each store. Besides the sweets the christmas lights caught my attention. While I ran out into the middle of the street trying to get pictures of the lights above the road, he would stand on the side waiting patiently and warning me, when necessary, about oncoming traffic.
I lost my glove on the way to the train our very first day going to Turin. I am one of those individuals whose hands and feet are constantly frozen, so I absolutely die without gloves in the cold weather. Since I was stubbornly waiting for shopping in Milan (yes, even for gloves) I made Ross keep my hands warm (or one hand rather). Every single moment that our hands weren't engaged holding something else Ross dutifully kept my hand in his and warm in his coat pocket.
When I think about Turin I'll think of pizza and pasta, breakfast cappuccinos and delicious desserts. I'll think of dogs literally everywhere (Europeans bring their dogs everywhere and it seems like everyone owns one too).
I'll remember being ridiculous with Ross...both of us making annoying, nonsensical sounds back and forth and using the 3 yr old whiny voice just because it's funny. Silly faces and arm wrestling (of course I lost) too.
As a couple we must have been glowing with happiness or being obnoxious, or maybe both, because on the train to Milan there was an elderly lady who could not stop watching us. We left Turin quite content with our time there.
 In one word, when I think about Turin I'll think of bliss. It was a fantastic few days!

Tuesday, January 11, 2011

Dream Vacation day 5 -Milan

We arrived in Milan after dark, after the temperature had dropped. The train station had an air of suspicion. Ross and I encountered a moment of confusion finding the metro station and, though I didn't tell him, I was afraid of the empty hallways we walked and the graffiti covered buildings we passed above ground. On our map it seemed like the metro was connected to the train station. However, the halls we were walking had no metro signs or directions and there were no indicators outside either. After walking the wrong way to a cross street we figured out finding the metro, bought two day urban passes, and took off on the speedy metro for our hotel. Ross and I have our moments with maps, directions, and signs. Sometimes he's better, sometimes I am at navigating. He led the way to our hotel and both of us were thankful when the man at the desk spoke English. To this point in our trip we'd mastered the basic touristy stuff: hi, bye, how much, where....but the rest was unintelligible. I had picked out our hotel in Turin and while it was certainly charming and nice, this choice, picked out by Mrs. Badgett was cooler. The hotel was actually a converted monastery across from a church which housed 'The Last Supper'. From the interior of the hotel the cloister in the middle was separated by glass windows so guests could still enjoy them without actually going out into the cold. Into another tiny elevator Ross and I squeezed ourselves and found our rooms down a modern, elegant hallway. The rooms were bigger than the ones at Alpi, but I felt like they were not as welcoming. The Alpi beds were much more comfortable and the bathrooms bigger and nicer. Yet the monastery rooms had the most lovely shared balcony which made me forget all about the interior. Over the rooftop Ross and I on our shared balcony had a gorgeous view of the lit up top of the church Maria del Grazie. I tried to take pictures which didn't turn out unfortunately because the sight was very pretty. After settling into our rooms and consulting the guidebook Ross and I left the hotel for dinner.
On then off the metro and we found ourselves at a nice plaza (Cordusio). Immediately the camera came out. Standing in the plaza we could see straight down multiple streets. Down one (Via Dante) we could see hanging lanterns slowly changing colors. Down another (Thomasso Grossi) we could see something blue glittering against the night sky. Down yet another came a trolley completely covered in white Christmas lights like something from a  toy store. Ross was patient enough to allow me about twenty minutes of picture taking, oohing, and aahing before reminding me we could check each street out in detail in the daylight. Off we went to find a meal.
It was a disaster. I felt so bad. We must have walked around the same few streets for a good thirty minutes searching for two restaurants which turned out to be closed. As I worried about the time (it was quite late) and the only restaurants now open closing due to the hour, Ross suggested finding a big street. Big streets tend to have places to eat right? As Ross and I blindly walked along following the flow of pedestrian traffic we literally stumbled across THE Milan sight, the Duomo and the plaza duomo. She was gorgeous, rising up against the black velvet sky with fiery stain glass windows and spot lights on the spires. The Duomo stopped Ross and I in our tracks, and although we were quite hungry and tired of walking in the cold, we couldn't help just standing for a moment admiring the beauty of the cathedral. A bit irritable, not with Ross, but with myself for not anticipating that so many restaurants would be closed between Christmas and New Year's I suggested a few more restaurants from my book in the same area we'd already been. Ross was sweet about my moodiness. I felt so awful for us walking around for over an hour in the cold. By now he'd had gotten a hang for the streets we needed, but despite him navigating us back exactly to where our new restaurant choices should have been, we found nothing open. At this point I started to do what I do when I lost patience. I become a take charge, whatever goes, kinda gal. We'd passed an open restaurant called the Santa Marta multiple times, but not understanding the menu and wary of the higher prices we'd rejected it each time. That was our place. It had to be our dinner place or I'd give up and eat overpriced, mini-fridge candy back at the hotel. Thankfully the Santa Marta was still open.
Ross and I were shown to our seats, we ordered and then we waited for our meals. While waiting, another couple arrived, an event that made me feel less bad about entering a restaurant at 10:30 pm for dinner. Ross and I watched as a party of twelve at the end of the restaurant went through their last course, then drinks, then dessert, then more drinks - somewhere in there all the men took a smoke break together in typical european fashion. Our food arrived.
I was envious of Ross' plate from the moment I saw it. He'd ordered Milanese risotto and steak without really knowing what he'd get. I had opted for the safer otption of white rice, chicken, and vegetables. My plate was really yummy, but Ross' was outstanding. We found out that we loved Milanese risotto which was the cheesiest, thickest most delicious rice I've ever put into my mouth. With a chuckle, Ross watched as I had multiple "tastes" of his plate. Warmed by the jovial atmosphere and the good food we spent a good while reveling in the restaurant. Our dessert was an apple pie over vanilla creme gelatto. We left the Santa Marta with full stomachs and lighter wallets - the meal was a bit pricey but I suppose understandably so considering it was the only one open. I think we paid moreso for the good atmosphere and the open doors than the food, well and the risotto - YUM! It was definitely bedtime after a long day - even though we'd gotten up late the day had been packed with walking and seeing, then travel, then dinner stress. It had been a good day though and I was so excited to see Milan in the daylight the next morning.

Monday, January 10, 2011

Dream Vacation day 5 -Turin part

The last day in Turin Ross and I got out of the hotel quite late but since we are both quick packers and since we'd planned our day the night before it was no problem. I wanted to see the Medieval City in the park by the Po river, and Ross was set on taking me ice skating for the first time in my life. It was a relaxing time walking along the river toward the Medieval City. Neither of us really knew what the city would be like, but Ross trusted my judgement enough to consent to a long walk to see it. While we walked next to the river we traded off taking photots of each other and of the river. We traded stories and anecdotes....it seemed almost like we could have been back at Sewanee. It was really nice. There was a part of me that felt like we should have woken up at the crack of dawn and loaded as much touristy stuff into our remaining hours as possible. There was a bigger part of me that just appreciated walking in Italy with Ross.
Finally we arrived at the Medieval City, and I think we were both glad we'd seen it before leaving Turin. Multiple buildings in medieval style gathered close to one another on the bank of the river, complete with a Castle that you could tour, it was a sight to see. In fact I was like a child at a theme park. I wanted to see each facet and go up close to every building. Due to time constraints we decided a tour through the castle wasn't necessary, but it was fine since just being in the center of a little medieval city was enchanting to me.
For lunch Ross and I finally ate at a place from my book that I'd been eyeing since arriving in Toulouse. 'La Badessa',  located in the Carlo-Emmanuel I plaza, caught my attention because it was inside a palace. I think I was expecting a grand staircase and marble floors. Instead we found sparse furnishings and chamber music. Okay so the setting wasn't exactly what I'd thought about when I'd imagined a palace, but it was still really a cool atmosphere.  Ross and I ordered two different 'taste' options. His plate included lasagna, green beans, and veal. My plate included a pork chop, potato cakes, and simple pasta. Trading back and forth, tasting each other's dishes we halved everything so that we got six different foods. Ross couldn't get enough of the green beans and pork chop and neither could I. Something about the spices used had our mouths captivated. Never before had he or I liked green beans so much. At the end of the meal we decided the perfect plate would have been my pork, Ross' green beans, and my pasta. For dessert we ordered some chocolate cake concoction which was yummy but not mind blowing. Then again, I'm a sucker for anything chocolate. The meal at Badessa turned out to be really yummy. Thankfully, we'd left ourselves enough time to ice skate before heading back to the hotel to grab our bags for the train station.
The rink was set up in our plaza which turned out to be a perfect location. From the rink we could see the Madre and the rest of our plaza and even look down Po street. Lots of adults were watching their kids on the rink, but Ross and I weren't the only people over 15 on the ice. A few more 'adults' skated around just as wobbly as I did. Ross said it would be just like roller blading and he was right. Skating was easy! However, with my camera in my pocket I was terrified of falling on the ice and harming myself or it. The hour spent ice skating was so much fun. Ross half tugged me around the rink until I got the hang of it. At intervals we snapped photos of each other and did awful tricks on our skates. Ross was able to skate on one foot. My trick was hurriedly turning a very shaky circle and managing to stay upright. As ridiculous as we probably looked we had a ball. I had tons of fun shrieking and laughing while wobbling around the circle while hanging onto Ross' coat cuff.  The hour went by way too fast before we had to take off our skates and dash to the hotel to make our train to Milan. The taxi driver gave us our last little bit of Turin, muttering in Italian at the slow, unpredictable driver in front of us. In the backseat, loaded with backpacks, good memories, and our train tickets I think we both said a mental goodbye to the quaint, lively, welcoming city of Turin. We made the train, sitting across from each other, and took off for Milan with smiles on our faces.

Dream Vacation day 4 - Turin (pt 3)

Dinner was delicious. I took a chance on meat ravioli with a dark, gravy-like sauce and loved it! My portion was small because I'd ordered the appetizer as a meal but my stomach didn't stay empty long due to water, wine, and the dessert later. The waiter we had was friendly and very helpful with some English skill. We tried to end the meal on a dessert of Tiramisu, a dessert Ross adores but which, no matter how much I try, I don't really like past the first bite. I tried the Tiramisu, pushed the plate over to Ross, and ordered my own caramel flan. After lingering over our finished meal a bit longer talking and enjoying the laid-back atmosphere of the restaurant we shook hands with the waiter who'd become something of an old-friend during the time and stepped out into the cold.
Around the plaza Ross and I took a stroll. I don't know what he was thinking about but I was trying to commit to memory the day and the beautiful surroundings. Turin was quickly becoming one of my favorite European cities aside from Paris, Aix, and Toulouse. The night was calm and pretty but cold. After a while strolling and chatting, Ross and I finished our night back at the hotel devouring our chocolates bought at Stratta earlier in the day. We talked over the things we just 'had' to see before our train to Milan the next day. I was impressed we'd fit so much into the day, but was thankful for my feet that the next day included sitting on a train. The chocolates were appreciated, the next day planned, and sleep found.

Dream Vacation day 4 - Turin (pt 2)

Using my trusty guide book Ross and I chose two restaurants on the same street near the Egyptian Museum that we wanted to see before the end of the day. Of course, due to the time of year, one was closed, but the other 'Dual' was open. We consulted the pizza menu and stepped inside the almost full restaurant. There seemed to be only two open tables, one almost behind the door at which the waitress tried to seat us, and another in the craziness between the door, the bar, and a table of 6. We seated ourselves at the second option and ordered delicious pizzas. The interior was decorated in a sleek modern style in the colors grey, white, and purple. Tin Cambell's tomato soup cans hung from the ceiling, converted into lights. The restaurant was full of locals and must have been a favorite because it remained full and bustling throughout our meal.
Next we hit the plaza San Carlo in search of some gelatto. Ross prefered this plaza although I prefered the plaza Vittorio next to our hotel. While searching for gelattocame across a chocolate/candy shop called Stratta. Ross saw me drooling over the window display and graciously paid for a visit inside. Although the jelly beans and fruit squares caught my eye with their bright colors I simply had to buy chocolate and introduce Ross to the concept of a truffle (the chocolate kind, no the mushroom kind). One of the women who spoke english helped us pick out three chocolates each. By now, the balls of my feet were starting to ache, but the chocolates made me forget about it. Failing at finding gelatto, despite a place labeled 'gelatteria', we decided we'd find some on Po after a visit to the Egyptian museum. I wanted to see some mummies!!
The Egyptian Museum was packed with people and with artifacts. I'd read in the guidebook that it housed the biggest collection outside of Cairo but seeing all of it seemed more daunting than reading about it. Lining walls and shelves, Ross and I saw hieroglyphics, mummies, amulets, etc. Both of us were surprised as we noticed more and more people bumping into us and children running free. Others talked on cell phones or took up the entire space in front of an explanation card on a display case. Remaining calm, although aware of such oblivious rudeness, we explored the museum with enthusiasm. In lower levels we got to see stone statues and sphinxes in a black, mirrored, spotlit room (quite the setting indeed for such beauty). Ross was interested in the pharoh from Moses' time and I in finding the copy of the rosetta stone. By the end of hours exploring the museum, our feet were killing us, although I was the weakling who needed to sit down a couple of times, and our heads were full of egyptian visions. We left the museum needed to rest up before dinner.
As we walked down Po I simply couldn't handle my boots anymore. They were still quite comfy but being on the balls of my feet for the previous three days had taken its toll. Each step felt like a stab. Ross kindly entered a shoe store with me without "I told you so" but it was so crowded that my patience couldn't stand it. Thankfully for my mood and Ross' feet as well, we found a gelatteria on the way back toward the hotel. Enjoying every taste of our tiny spoonfuls of yumminess we just rested in the feeling of not moving for the moment. While eating I convinced Ross to head back to the hotel by himself. I needed to be a complete diva and shop for some other warm boots and having Ross with me was not going to work. I was aware of how his feet must be feeling and thought some time checking sports and internet at the hotel would do him some good. Reluctantly he left me to my mission.
I found a shop, got some grey boots which Ross later named 'elf boots', and was back at the hotel within the hour. After resting our feet, and more surfing the internet, we consulted the same helpful guy at the front desk for a dinner spot. He picked out a place close to the hotel named 'Porto di Savona', a place also in my guide book. Although a little disappointed from viewing the outside because the place didn't look that nice I was too tired from our full day to walk anywhere else. In we went and found ourselves in a homey restaurant with lots of charm and plenty of wine. I looked around the room appreciating the old clock and the gigantic jug of wine corks; the faded wall paper and the wooden beams actually complimented each other in an old world sort of way. It was definitely a place where you were going to get good food in heaping portions and no one would care what fork you used or your dinner etiquette.

Dream Vacation day 4 - Turin (pt 1)

The second day in Turin, Ross and I did a better job of being tourists. After hotel breakfast (which if you stay at a hotel in Europe usually consists of slices of meat and cheese, croissants, natural yogurt, corn flake cereal, coffee, and fruit juice) we got out of the hotel ready for a day of proper sightseeing. Ross and I both really wanted to see the former location of the Shroud of Turin as well as a Palace or two. After checking the hours of the ice skating rink set up in our plaza (an activity we definitely wanted to do before leaving Turin), we headed up the bustling street Po toward Duomo Saint John Baptist. Ross and I were a bit confused because on the map the cathedral was listed as Saint Giovanni....which now that I think about it does seem like Jean or John but at the time such as association was not clicking for us. Skipping over the Royal Plaza Ross led the way to the cathedral. I'm not sure what I expected but I was nonplussed by what I found. The cathedral was dark and unattractive thanks to the gaudy gilding here and there and a serious lack of light. I was impressed with the trompe l'oeil painting above the altar though. Ross and I took a quick walk around the interior, ending in front of the shroud's location (not the actual shroud) but a clearly indicated area especially dedicated to the Shroud. Behind what looked like bulletproof glass a square coffin/table like structure sat covered in white and red cloth and adorned on top with a crown of thorns. Above this ....holding tank shall we say.... hung an enlarged facsimile of the part of the shroud that showed Jesus' face. Ross waited patiently while I took pictures. Then we left the cathedral happy to have seen the location of the shroud but ready for some sunlight and more sights.
Ross was really interested in the Madama Palace which was conveniently located next to the Royal Palace, and both were positioned around the piazza Castello. The architecture of the Royal Palace was gorgeous but neither of us wanted to go inside; the tourist book didn't make it sound appealing enough. Instead, we crossed the few steps over the piazza Castello and entered the Madama Palace. Not sure of what we could see for free and what was considered a tour, Ross led through the entrance hall toward a room with a large Christmas tree. We were amazed when our feet hit glass. The entire floor of the room was glass so that you could see down into the stone passageways of the basement. It was both thrilling and scary for me to look through the floor to the stone level below. With nothing else exciting in that room, we moved back out into the entrance hall flanked by two grand staircases. Others were lazily traversing them so Ross and I did the same. Unfortunately the staircase only led to an upper hallway over the entrance and then down the other staircase back to ground level. Intrigued with the beauty of what we'd seen for free, we decided to spend some euros on the tour/museum deeper inside the palace. The self-tour led through the museum collection of religious art and medieval art. Although much of it was fascinating and cool to see I think my favorite part were the upper levels.
Ross and I were both wondering if the entire castle would consist of art or if any of it would show palace rooms true to their age. We explored the basement with a beautiful roman mosaic floor exhibition. After traveling up a spiral stone staircase our wishes were fulfilled. Palace rooms with old wooden floors, floor to ceiling mirrors, and thick, gaudy, richly colored wall paper greeted us. We saw breathtaking furniture and beautiful fireplaces. On the next floor, we explored the endless rows of china (I mean endless!) and a room entirely dedicated to lace. But my absolute favorite part of the hours long tour we took was the jewelry exhibition that the palace had in the ballroom. The ballroom itself was elegant and spacious - Ross had trouble dragging me away from it - but to add to the allure was an exhibition with ambient music and moving lights of American costume jewelry from the first half of the 20th century.
Some of the sparkle seemed to interest Ross, which made me feel less selfish about oohing and aahing over each bejeweled little work of art. Finally, drunk off the glitz and glamour (at least I was), we left the Madama Palace hungry for lunch.

Sunday, January 9, 2011

Dream Vacation day 3 - Turin (pt 3)

The young guy from the previous night was on shift and discarded my dinner choices in favor of a celebrated local place, located near the Mole, called Tre da Tre (3x3). After freshening up and then waking Ross up, he and I headed to the restaurant. It was a full, bustling place with a lively atmosphere and a waitress who thankfully spoke some English. Ross was interested in the menu while I was facinated with the patrons who were allowed to have their dogs in the restaurant. We both chose pasta for dinner and awaited our food while observing the people and things around us.
 During our meal we saw interesting things. Some guy was traveling table to table selling individual roses. The restaurant manager engaged with those customer he knew and checked in on all facets of the staff and restaurant. Waitresses, bus boys, and others bustled to and fro. At some point I even snaked my hand away from the table to pet a dog nearby who was behaving quite well aside from a couple random barks. The food was yummy. The dessert was better! Ross and I ordered 'profiteroles' which ended up being mousse/ice cream balls surrounded in chocolate, powdered sugar, and encased in pastry shells. The dinner was a huge, satisfying success!!!
After our meal Ross and I explored Po street, a  main street in Turin linking our plaza to the piazza Castello. We also walked all along our piazza, then by the river, then around the city center in general just 'seeing' the city of Turin without a map or any worry about time.
Although it might seem that Ross and I accomplished little our first day in Turin we were tired at the end of the night. We'd walked a lot and gotten a general layout of the city center and all the things we definitely 'had' to see the next day in Turin.

Dream Vacation day 3 - Turin (pt 2)

The waiter didn't speak English and since neither Ross nor I speak Italian it was quite evident we were going to be forced to embarrassingly use a little Italian dictionary to look up the words we couldn't figure out with his knowledge of Latin and Spanish and my knowledge of French. After choosing what seemed like safe, appetizing pizzas we waited. The pizzas brought by the waiter had cost less than 10 euros each and were bigger than a medium pizza in America. Ross stared down with satisfaction and I with surprise; there was no way all that food was ending up in my stomach but it sure smelled and looked good. There were a few surprises in our order. Ross ended up with ham he hadn't expected under all his other ingredients and my mushroom, olive, ham pizza was more watery than I'm used to but every bite of both our dishes was heaven. As would become the norm on our trip Ross devoured his entire pizza while I struggled to consume half of mine in the same time. We left 'La Spada Reale' (the name of the restaurant) with happy, full stomachs. Since our entire day had begun a little late it was already nearing the early winter dusk when we left the restaurant.
We walked to the Mole Antonelliana (the tallest structure in Turin), not to explore the cinema theatre inside, but in order to try to catch sunset at the top of the observation area. The line was long when we stepped into it and I began to feel guilty that he'd let me choose the sight since my choice involved waiting in the cold. Bit by bit we moved up the line and inside into another line just as long. After waiting almost exactly 2 hours (graciously Ross helped me go over French exam note cards in line), we made it into the elevator that would take us to the top of the Mole. Ross seemed so weary and it was so cold that I felt slightly disappointed with the experience, but the view at the top perked us both up. Looking down we could see each piazza and monument lit up in the night (we'd missed sunset standing in the waiting line). The major streets crisscrossed below in a blaze of luminescence. Ross and I were surprised to see the Santa Maria al Monte lit up in dark blue lighting and we agreed it was better during the daylight. After as long as we could stand in the cold wind, Ross and I descended and headed back to the hotel. We both needed to warm up and rest our feet before dinner. Back in the hotel, me joining Ross in his room so we could try to figure out dinner choices from my travel book, staring at the travel book turned into napping. Fortunately, I awoke after about an hour and let Ross continue sleeping while I headed down to the hotel desk to gather info on local places to eat.

Dream Vacation day 3 - Turin (pt 1)

I'd like to say Ross and I woke up bright and early to explore Italy. But Ross and I aren't morning people so we both slept in, barely catching the end of hotel breakfast, and then proceeded to take our time getting out of the hotel for the day. Being Monday, and the dead time between Christmas and New Year's, we already knew that lots of things were going to be closed. However, determined to make the most of our trip we headed down the block to walk along the lazy river Po.
I had no idea when I picked our hotel for Turin that it would be situated perfectly right off of the gorgeous Piazza Vittoria Veneto, one block away from the river Po, and a ten minute walk from lots of major Turin sights. Random, perfect luck.
We first visited the Gran Madre di Dio, a neoclassic church resembling a rotunda with a slate blue dome and very pretty statues, situated just across the Ponte Vittorio Emanuele I (bridge). Though we couldn't go in, seeing the outside of the building was good enough. We'd already seen her lit up from the taxi the night before. My Italian is nonexistent, but I think our driver told us that the church was very important to the people of Turin and they viewed 'her' as 'watching over them'. From the Madre, Ross and I headed up the hill to a church. He'd seen it from below and suggested it might be cool to check it out though we didn't know what it was. I was up for stretching my legs and working up my appetite for a my first big Italian lunch.
Up the hill we went and arrived at the Santa Maria al Monte church. There wasn't much to see honestly. The building wasn't spectacular and although the inside was charming it didn't hold a candle to others Ross and I had seen...but the view outside! The view was perfect! In my kindest tourist manner I asked an Italian guy to snap a photo of Ross and I against the pretty skyline, making sure that it included the famous Mole. After a couple more minutes admiring the beautiful Turin from above Ross and I headed down the hill.
My boyfriend seriously doubted my choice of footwear, not that I blame him, because I was wearing black, kitten heeled winter boots. In my defense, unlike most females, my shoe repertoire is tiny and it was those boots or cowboy boots that I had paid too much for to be willing to ruin walking around Italy. My boots were super comfortable and I had faith that they'd last each day without killing my feet.
While walking in the area around our hotel, Ross abruptly stopped in front of a restaurant window. I was a bit skeptical since we had no idea, apart from the menu, how the food would be or if the place was reputable, but it looked quaint inside and the prices were reasonable. We were seated in a charming dining room and given menus....

Friday, January 7, 2011

Care Package

Forgot to mention this ... before Ross arrived, he asked if I wanted anything from America. Of course there was a list from here to China, but I reigned myself in to just the essentials:

Lucky Charms - I don't know why, because France has Frosted Flakes and Golden Grahams, but I crave Lucky Charms and haven't been able to find them. From his suitcase Ross pulled two Tupperware containers packed full of lucky charms (most of which have been eaten by now with immense satisfaction). I like the marshmallows and how the milk turns blue!!!

Gummy Vitamins - I'm clearly not an adult yet because my stomach rejects the Centrum vitamins for women that I brought with me to France. I knew that some companies made children's vitamins that look and taste like gummy bears because my cousins eat them - While Ross was in Toulouse, I fed these children's vitamins each day to myself and to him. Now that he's no longer in the same city, I get these treats all to myself. Staying healthy never tasted so good!

Macaroni and Cheese- there is no cheddar here - yummy sharp, eat it from the package block cheddar! And what's worse, there's no macaroni and cheese from a box a.k.a.  the American staple comfort food that I have been missing a lot! Ross brought a box for me though so I can celebrate finishing French exams with some comfort food from home.

Cosmo- Yes I'm aware that Cosmo is a trashy superficial magazine...but with all my french reading there's no way I'm buying a book to read for leisure. So, I asked Ross to bring something in English that I could peruse, something short and mindless = cosmo.

Advil- I'll stick with my tried and trusted American brand headache pain reliever thank you.

Loofa - there's no way I'm paying multiple euros for a little daily exfoliation. No way. A loofa is not a luxury item FRANCE it is a necessity - geez get with the program. Ross picked out and brought a light purple, perfectly sized loofa for me. Yay!

Deodorant - in America I never have to examine my 'deodorant' (I put it in quotes for a reason). From my experience all the deodorant I've ever bought has been anti-perspirant plus deodorant meaning it blocks sweat and has a pleasant odor. Here in France, that doesn't seem to be the case...it's one or the other. When you are in too many layers to take off on the metro, or the metro is too crowded, or you are walking a lot during the day even though it's cold outside, sweat happens....I don't want to be that girl with stains and smell. So, I asked my boyfriend to bring Degree for women (clear solid) which he did.

Ghirardelli Dark Chocolate Squares - my guy knows my weakness....tis all I can say.

I must be the luckiest girl in the world to have a boyfriend who will stroll up to the check out counter with the above items. I'm blessed indeed not only that he was man enough to buy those items, but that he brought them to France for me!

Dream Vacation day 2 - Turin night

My feet must have had a sixth sense for taxis because without seeing a sign or any direction I walked straight toward an awaiting taxi fleet in front of the train station. There was no possibility that Ross and I could figure out the Turin tram system or how to walk to our hotel so taxi ride it was. The kind Italian stowed our bags, demanded our destination, and sped off for Hotel Alpi Resort. Ross paid attention to the driver, seeming to converse in a half english/italian pseudo-conversation while I stared out the windows drinking in the sights. All the old, gorgeous buildings were lit up with lights to accentuate the magnificent architecture. The Christmas lights over the roads caught my attention immediately. Suspended on wire frames, constellations in blue and white lights rolled by all down one long street. Then we turned onto a street with all white lights in the shape of various circles and symbols. I thought it might be religious symbols and planets but no, just random pretty lights. I vowed to get pictured of such magnificent Christmas lights while in Turin.
We pulled up to the Hotel Alpi Resort, payed the friendly taxi guy, and said our goodnights. When Ross and I entered the hotel building he was very confused. Thankfully I'd done way too much research online and knew that the hotel was located on the third floor of the building, with the first two being residential. We skipped the tiny three by two foot wide elevator that we couldn't figure out how to work and lugged our stuff up three winding flights of stairs. At the top of the third floor we found ourselves at the hotel Alpi, a plush warm place decorated in golds and reds with little rooms but lots of charm! Because of all the travel, I had a splitting headache and Ross and I were both impatient for food. We stashed our things in our rooms and asked at the front desk where the nearest open restaurant was. (I complained enough about the pharmacy being closed that the sweet young gentleman at the front desk gave me a tylenol for my headache from the hotel's supply). The guy told us that we could visit the pub or the take-away pizzeria a couple blocks away. Ross and I opted for the pizzeria but instead stopped in at the first place we saw with a flashing pizza sign conveniently located less than a block away  from our hotel.
Inside the pizza place, I stared down in disgust and disappointment at the pizza slices covered in hot dog slices, french fries, and other odd ingredients. Clearly the man behind the counter was proud of his gross assortment of food so I didn't so much as frown while I looked it over trying to decide what Ross and I could order that wouldn't make us sick. Ross was up for anything bless him and I was too tired to care all that much, so we exited the pizza shop with a box of various slices of reheated pizza and two soft drinks. Our first 'dinner' in Turin was interesting indeed, and neither Ross nor I complained as we hungrily munched our pizza while contemplating  sightseeing for the next day. I must admit I was proud of us as a couple. A long day of travel, some unexpected glitches, and a dinner more suitable for someone fresh out of the nightclub ...yet we kept calm, positive, and comforting each other throughout. That "what if?" question about us not traveling well as a couple vanished. We were going to be fine, more than fine, traveling together after all. The thought didn't surprise me.

Dream Vacation day 2 - to Turin

Day 2 began bleary and early. To the train station Ross and I headed with our bags and our excitement for the next week. With exams the Monday after our week of travel, I made doubly sure to pack notes and flashcards as well as my mp3 player. Deluding myself, I imagined I'd be able to tear my attention away from cuddling Ross on the trains in order to study. One walk to Compans Caff, then a very short metro ride later, Ross and I found our way onto our first train for Valence. We were fortunate enough to have seats next to each other and spend the ride engaged in all the normal travel distractions: mad libs, crosswords, talking, dozing, watching the scenery flash by....
At Valence we found sandwich lunches from a stand inside the tiny train station, watched people stroll/run by in all assortments of garb and appearance, then made our way to the next train headed to Chambery. On our first train we had had reserved seats. This leg of the trip was not the same. The train an hour earlier to Chambery had encountered some issue and so all the passengers had been advised to find room on the next train, incidentally the train Ross and I were about to get onto. Once the doors opened the waiting crowd turned into a frenzied mob with people shoving, complaining, and rushing trying to secure the few seats available. For the rest of us the trip would be spent sitting on bags in the aisle or standing mushed up against someone in between cars like sardines in a tiny tin can. Ross and I thankfully got an aisle position which allowed us a little more standing room and the option, if we could manage it, of putting our bags on the overhead shelf. We were positive about the situation, holding hands and talking of little things while the train sped past little tiny french villages. I was just happy we weren't in between cars where people had to shift and find even more room that didn't seem to exist since each stop between Valence and Chambery revealed more and more people crushing themselves into the train in order to get to Chambery.
Chambery had an even smaller train station than Valence, a veritable corridor between the street and the awaiting trains and maybe enough sitting for a couple dozen people. Cold in the station, and desperately needing to use the restroom, I convinced Ross that this was the perfect time to spend our hour long layover at a cafe getting drinks.
Directly across from the train station sat a cafe with neon green lights and a dated interior and two customers inside. While not the best looking place it seemed okay enough so we entered with our luggage and sat down at a booth facing the counter/bar. Cokes and fries were ordered, drank, and devoured while Ross and I fiddled away our hour. At last we climbed back aboard a train headed for Turin (this time with plenty of open seating and room for luggage). Just as Ross and I were starting our 5th game of gin while two french kids ran up and down the aisle stopping every so often to watch our card play we pulled into a snow covered little train station. Everyone gathered their things and began to leave the train while Ross and I looked around confusedly. We weren't in Chambery yet....
I asked three different people who all told me that the train was broken and so we were being bussed to Turin. Okay, fair enough Ross and I thought, trying to remain positive despite our tiredness and the realization that a bus trip was going to take considerably longer than a train ride. Directed to one bus we dragged our bags and our feet only to be told to try the next bus. Ross stowed our bags and we began to climb aboard the second bus, but we were told to go back to the first bus. Ross went to get our luggage while I stood waiting by the first bus. Onto the first bus we climbed, finding that it was overfull and we'd probably spend the next few hours standing. Right about this time Ross and I began to complain to each other. The bus driver complained of not being able to drive on the highway with standing passengers while some other transport official rushed around trying to get a proper headcount and ordering taxis to take some of the passengers to the next closest town. The other buses to Turin pulled out of the station. Ross and I complained more as we watched a half hour tick by. Finally, the bus was unloaded enough by those headed to the next town over (going by taxi) that Ross and I were able to nab seats. A few hours later we were in Turin Italy, dropped outside the train station in the cold, past time for restaurants to be open, and very late for hotel check-in.

Dream Vacation day 1 - Toulouse

After spending the last few holidays alone, I couldn't sit still while waiting for my boyfriend, Ross, to arrive in Toulouse on the 26th of December. His visit to Toulouse and our trip to Italy were to be my Christmas presents and my opportunity to travel in Europe. We'd secured hotel rooms in our two chosen cities, Turin and Milan, and made all the necessary arrangements beforehand.

The day of Ross' arrival I traveled to the Toulouse airport way too early, but I was excited of course. I stood outside the baggage claim area (which is separated by a pair of colored, glass sliding doors) straining with all of the other individuals to catch a glimpse of those waiting for their bags on the other side of the doors. So many people came through the separation doors during the hour and a half I waited - the screen on the wall kept scrolling the words "Heathrow Arrival. Passengers Deboarding." the entire time I waited - then finally Ross walked through the doors. After a very long, breathless bear hug and a quick kiss greeting, we headed toward the airport shuttle hand in hand. With his hand in mine everything frustrating and difficult over the last semester seemed to melt away. I couldn't stop smiling and thanking the Lord for this gift.

As we rode the shuttle toward Compans Caffarelli I thought to myself, "What if I've gained weight? What if this trip sucks?  What if I cling to him too much during our time together? What if we can't handle traveling together?" Basically I was worried that our college relationship which had now moved to the post-college adult world of real life would be damaged by his visit rather than strengthened...

Knowing that our options for dinner were slim since it was the 26th of December and most places would be closed, Ross and I picked a few options around the Captiol/Place Wilson area. Our picks for food were closed. I tried to walk us around the Place Wilson circle, looking at all the menus, but all the restaurants seemed to be serving the same inedible typical French things, tartare and foie-gras. Finally we stumbled into a Brasserie and somehow managed to dine on salad, steak with caramelized onions, and french fries. The meal was delicious! Ross was surprised by the medium rare cooking of our steaks...I wasn't because I'd heard about the French conception of cooking meat only one way for every customer (the medium rare way). However, I really wanted Ross to like the food, so his downcast, surprised face made me nervous. He ate his entire plate, despite the meat's preparation, and he even helped me finish my plate. The brasserie interior was beautiful and full of people! It was a lovely first night in Toulouse and a great start to our European vacation together!!!