Dream Vacation day 6 - MIlan (pt 1)

Waking up the next morning was difficult. The only thing motivating me out of bed was the thought of free hotel breakfast. The only thing forcing Ross out of bed was the need for us to have dinner reservations. Since we knew, thanks to the night before, that lots of restaurants were closed we thought it would be best if we got reservations asap in the morning for a New Year's Eve meal. To breakfast we went. The food was almost identical to the spread at Hotel Alpi Resort in Turin except that this hotel included chocolate muffins, more fresh fruit (KIWIS!!!) and breakfast cake similar to pound cake. Since we'd dashed to breakfast at the very last minute we still needed to actually get ready for the day. After our meal I opted for the shower while Ross nabbed a dinner reservation. It came as little surprise that Ross got reservations, took a shower, and was completely ready to leave the hotel in the same amount of time it too me to just catch my shower. I would say we left the hotel when we were ready but really Ross had to wait for me.
Milan is a huge city. There's absolutely no way to shove every tourist sight into two days. These two facts Ross and I already knew before getting to Milan, so we had no unrealistic expectations. Our first day we'd spend on the city's historic center. The Duomo we'd seen the night before now looked even more impressive in the sunlight. The plaza just in front of the Duomo was teeming with other tourists and panhandlers; it was clearly the heart of the city.
The inside was really interesting, a definite gem. Paintings hung inbetween columns and on the walls, their backs covered in scarlet cloth which made them seem all the more impressive. Rising to a dizzying height if you stared long enough the columns and the stainglass windows towered in comparison to the tiny people. Up one side, around the altar, and then down the other side  in normal 'tourists in a chuch' fashion. Ross was fascinated with a sunken altar under the actual altar. There were windows at foot level that one could look through to see this small, secretive chamber. I imagined something out of a Dan Brown novel happening around the half-hidden altar. Ross I think was more interested in it from a religious and historical point of view. I could have sat all day watching the devout light taper candles for loved ones. Each prayed briefly over the flickering tables of lights and then attempted to secure their candle among the other without burning themselves. Something about the peace of the warm glow and the idea that just a candle can have such meaning ....it moves me. Just as we were about to exit the church I slightly yanked on Ross' hand. Nope, I wasn't ready to go just yet even though we'd probably already spent an hour in the vast hall. Ross led me to a pew where we sat for a while longer. When we stepped back out into the daylight it was like the world came to life again. People talking, cell phones ringing, children running about...I was both relieved to enter back into the world and a bit sad to leave the quiteness of the Duomo.
The doors to the church were giant, larger than any doors I've ever seen, so I absolutely had to get a comparison shot on the camera between teeny Ross up against the seemingly infinite doors. It took a couple tries but the picture turned out perfectly. The Victor Emanual Galleria was in sight so that's where we visited next. Since neither one of us was interested in shopping at Prada or Louis Vuitton...we turned our gaze upward to the beautiful architecture and glass work. If I ever suddenly hit the jackpot I think the Galleria would become more excited. So maybe we wouldn't be buying anything, but walking through the elegant space was treat enough. Next, we were off to the Rinascente 7 story department store conveniently, (and oddly, in my opinion) located next to the Duomo. Ross had read about it online, I'd gotten the scoop from a friend, but either way both of us wanted to be inside 7 stories of retail madness. Walking into the store I had a little bit of doubt. The place didn't look SO big. Where were all the stories? First on the shopping agenda... I needed moisturizer since we'd been out so much in the cold air. The Clinique lady, who spoke really good English, helped me purchase some moisturizer. Then it was off to explore all 7 stories of the store. From the bottom stories below the ground we were walking every aisle and checking out all the very expensive things. Before finishing all 7 stories our hunger got to us. So, skipping some of the exploration in favor of doing it after lunch, we took escalators to the tippy 7th story top. From the instant my eyes drank n the top floor I knew I never wanted to leave. This floor was instantly my favorite place in Milan. A mini grocery story, a candy/chocolate counter, smoothie bar, steak restaurant, sushi, restaurant, other Italian restaurants....hours must be spent here indeed. I was all the more charmed because the top floor sat even with the cathedral spires. Every menu was glanced over. The little grocery part was walked through, twice. Ross was looking for something culinary as a late Christmas gift for his mother. The initial pass through nothing caught our eyes. On to some yummy food. My boyfriend found Obika (the mozzarella bar) online or in a travel book. When I heard mozzarella bar my mind conjured an endless supply of differently seasoned mozzarella sticks with various sauces and side dishes. The restaurant was way better than my assumption! The entire menu looked scrumptious! It was a difficult decision but we both ordered mozzarella on pizza bread. It sounds very simple maybe too simple, but what the waitress brought was a complex, delicious dish. On a round piece of thick, toasted bread was heaped cheese, meat, veggies, and other ingredients. I loved the eggplant/mozzarella/caper/fresh tomatoes mountain of yumminess that I got. Ross got  a softer creamy cheese/zucchini/tomatoes mix. We devoured our lunch in no time and were ready to finish our assault on the department store. Unfortunately our waitress had disappeared. Finally, having paid the check we decided to make another pass through the grocery story aisles to see if anything caught our eyes with another pass. We were supposed to be looking for Ross' mom a gift. Instead we found some sodas without flavors but with scantily glad girls on the bottle. I chose a fiery redhead, I thought maybe I'd be getting a 'Big Red' type soda. He chose a blonde on a blue bottle which we thought might be a 'Sprite' or lemonade concoction. With our purchases we continued exploring the Rinascente.

The Little Things (Turin)

I wanted to take a moment in my trip memories at large to recall some details. Whenever I think of Turin I will remember the views, maybe the big things we did, and I will fondly think of the food - wow! But before all of that I think I shall remember the following...
 Without television, and away from free internet, Ross and I had lots of serious and silly conversations, almost as if we were trying to fit into two weeks the conversations we'd neglected for four months.
We played mad libs and cards and did crosswords while traveling.
In Turin I must have stopped and drooled over every single chocolate, pastry, and gelatto shop's window display. No matter where we were headed or if we'd already eaten, Ross would allow me to stop and stare at each store. Besides the sweets the christmas lights caught my attention. While I ran out into the middle of the street trying to get pictures of the lights above the road, he would stand on the side waiting patiently and warning me, when necessary, about oncoming traffic.
I lost my glove on the way to the train our very first day going to Turin. I am one of those individuals whose hands and feet are constantly frozen, so I absolutely die without gloves in the cold weather. Since I was stubbornly waiting for shopping in Milan (yes, even for gloves) I made Ross keep my hands warm (or one hand rather). Every single moment that our hands weren't engaged holding something else Ross dutifully kept my hand in his and warm in his coat pocket.
When I think about Turin I'll think of pizza and pasta, breakfast cappuccinos and delicious desserts. I'll think of dogs literally everywhere (Europeans bring their dogs everywhere and it seems like everyone owns one too).
I'll remember being ridiculous with Ross...both of us making annoying, nonsensical sounds back and forth and using the 3 yr old whiny voice just because it's funny. Silly faces and arm wrestling (of course I lost) too.
As a couple we must have been glowing with happiness or being obnoxious, or maybe both, because on the train to Milan there was an elderly lady who could not stop watching us. We left Turin quite content with our time there.
 In one word, when I think about Turin I'll think of bliss. It was a fantastic few days!

Dream Vacation day 5 -Milan

We arrived in Milan after dark, after the temperature had dropped. The train station had an air of suspicion. Ross and I encountered a moment of confusion finding the metro station and, though I didn't tell him, I was afraid of the empty hallways we walked and the graffiti covered buildings we passed above ground. On our map it seemed like the metro was connected to the train station. However, the halls we were walking had no metro signs or directions and there were no indicators outside either. After walking the wrong way to a cross street we figured out finding the metro, bought two day urban passes, and took off on the speedy metro for our hotel. Ross and I have our moments with maps, directions, and signs. Sometimes he's better, sometimes I am at navigating. He led the way to our hotel and both of us were thankful when the man at the desk spoke English. To this point in our trip we'd mastered the basic touristy stuff: hi, bye, how much, where....but the rest was unintelligible. I had picked out our hotel in Turin and while it was certainly charming and nice, this choice, picked out by Mrs. Badgett was cooler. The hotel was actually a converted monastery across from a church which housed 'The Last Supper'. From the interior of the hotel the cloister in the middle was separated by glass windows so guests could still enjoy them without actually going out into the cold. Into another tiny elevator Ross and I squeezed ourselves and found our rooms down a modern, elegant hallway. The rooms were bigger than the ones at Alpi, but I felt like they were not as welcoming. The Alpi beds were much more comfortable and the bathrooms bigger and nicer. Yet the monastery rooms had the most lovely shared balcony which made me forget all about the interior. Over the rooftop Ross and I on our shared balcony had a gorgeous view of the lit up top of the church Maria del Grazie. I tried to take pictures which didn't turn out unfortunately because the sight was very pretty. After settling into our rooms and consulting the guidebook Ross and I left the hotel for dinner.
On then off the metro and we found ourselves at a nice plaza (Cordusio). Immediately the camera came out. Standing in the plaza we could see straight down multiple streets. Down one (Via Dante) we could see hanging lanterns slowly changing colors. Down another (Thomasso Grossi) we could see something blue glittering against the night sky. Down yet another came a trolley completely covered in white Christmas lights like something from a  toy store. Ross was patient enough to allow me about twenty minutes of picture taking, oohing, and aahing before reminding me we could check each street out in detail in the daylight. Off we went to find a meal.
It was a disaster. I felt so bad. We must have walked around the same few streets for a good thirty minutes searching for two restaurants which turned out to be closed. As I worried about the time (it was quite late) and the only restaurants now open closing due to the hour, Ross suggested finding a big street. Big streets tend to have places to eat right? As Ross and I blindly walked along following the flow of pedestrian traffic we literally stumbled across THE Milan sight, the Duomo and the plaza duomo. She was gorgeous, rising up against the black velvet sky with fiery stain glass windows and spot lights on the spires. The Duomo stopped Ross and I in our tracks, and although we were quite hungry and tired of walking in the cold, we couldn't help just standing for a moment admiring the beauty of the cathedral. A bit irritable, not with Ross, but with myself for not anticipating that so many restaurants would be closed between Christmas and New Year's I suggested a few more restaurants from my book in the same area we'd already been. Ross was sweet about my moodiness. I felt so awful for us walking around for over an hour in the cold. By now he'd had gotten a hang for the streets we needed, but despite him navigating us back exactly to where our new restaurant choices should have been, we found nothing open. At this point I started to do what I do when I lost patience. I become a take charge, whatever goes, kinda gal. We'd passed an open restaurant called the Santa Marta multiple times, but not understanding the menu and wary of the higher prices we'd rejected it each time. That was our place. It had to be our dinner place or I'd give up and eat overpriced, mini-fridge candy back at the hotel. Thankfully the Santa Marta was still open.
Ross and I were shown to our seats, we ordered and then we waited for our meals. While waiting, another couple arrived, an event that made me feel less bad about entering a restaurant at 10:30 pm for dinner. Ross and I watched as a party of twelve at the end of the restaurant went through their last course, then drinks, then dessert, then more drinks - somewhere in there all the men took a smoke break together in typical european fashion. Our food arrived.
I was envious of Ross' plate from the moment I saw it. He'd ordered Milanese risotto and steak without really knowing what he'd get. I had opted for the safer otption of white rice, chicken, and vegetables. My plate was really yummy, but Ross' was outstanding. We found out that we loved Milanese risotto which was the cheesiest, thickest most delicious rice I've ever put into my mouth. With a chuckle, Ross watched as I had multiple "tastes" of his plate. Warmed by the jovial atmosphere and the good food we spent a good while reveling in the restaurant. Our dessert was an apple pie over vanilla creme gelatto. We left the Santa Marta with full stomachs and lighter wallets - the meal was a bit pricey but I suppose understandably so considering it was the only one open. I think we paid moreso for the good atmosphere and the open doors than the food, well and the risotto - YUM! It was definitely bedtime after a long day - even though we'd gotten up late the day had been packed with walking and seeing, then travel, then dinner stress. It had been a good day though and I was so excited to see Milan in the daylight the next morning.

Dream Vacation day 5 -Turin part

The last day in Turin Ross and I got out of the hotel quite late but since we are both quick packers and since we'd planned our day the night before it was no problem. I wanted to see the Medieval City in the park by the Po river, and Ross was set on taking me ice skating for the first time in my life. It was a relaxing time walking along the river toward the Medieval City. Neither of us really knew what the city would be like, but Ross trusted my judgement enough to consent to a long walk to see it. While we walked next to the river we traded off taking photots of each other and of the river. We traded stories and anecdotes....it seemed almost like we could have been back at Sewanee. It was really nice. There was a part of me that felt like we should have woken up at the crack of dawn and loaded as much touristy stuff into our remaining hours as possible. There was a bigger part of me that just appreciated walking in Italy with Ross.
Finally we arrived at the Medieval City, and I think we were both glad we'd seen it before leaving Turin. Multiple buildings in medieval style gathered close to one another on the bank of the river, complete with a Castle that you could tour, it was a sight to see. In fact I was like a child at a theme park. I wanted to see each facet and go up close to every building. Due to time constraints we decided a tour through the castle wasn't necessary, but it was fine since just being in the center of a little medieval city was enchanting to me.
For lunch Ross and I finally ate at a place from my book that I'd been eyeing since arriving in Toulouse. 'La Badessa',  located in the Carlo-Emmanuel I plaza, caught my attention because it was inside a palace. I think I was expecting a grand staircase and marble floors. Instead we found sparse furnishings and chamber music. Okay so the setting wasn't exactly what I'd thought about when I'd imagined a palace, but it was still really a cool atmosphere.  Ross and I ordered two different 'taste' options. His plate included lasagna, green beans, and veal. My plate included a pork chop, potato cakes, and simple pasta. Trading back and forth, tasting each other's dishes we halved everything so that we got six different foods. Ross couldn't get enough of the green beans and pork chop and neither could I. Something about the spices used had our mouths captivated. Never before had he or I liked green beans so much. At the end of the meal we decided the perfect plate would have been my pork, Ross' green beans, and my pasta. For dessert we ordered some chocolate cake concoction which was yummy but not mind blowing. Then again, I'm a sucker for anything chocolate. The meal at Badessa turned out to be really yummy. Thankfully, we'd left ourselves enough time to ice skate before heading back to the hotel to grab our bags for the train station.
The rink was set up in our plaza which turned out to be a perfect location. From the rink we could see the Madre and the rest of our plaza and even look down Po street. Lots of adults were watching their kids on the rink, but Ross and I weren't the only people over 15 on the ice. A few more 'adults' skated around just as wobbly as I did. Ross said it would be just like roller blading and he was right. Skating was easy! However, with my camera in my pocket I was terrified of falling on the ice and harming myself or it. The hour spent ice skating was so much fun. Ross half tugged me around the rink until I got the hang of it. At intervals we snapped photos of each other and did awful tricks on our skates. Ross was able to skate on one foot. My trick was hurriedly turning a very shaky circle and managing to stay upright. As ridiculous as we probably looked we had a ball. I had tons of fun shrieking and laughing while wobbling around the circle while hanging onto Ross' coat cuff.  The hour went by way too fast before we had to take off our skates and dash to the hotel to make our train to Milan. The taxi driver gave us our last little bit of Turin, muttering in Italian at the slow, unpredictable driver in front of us. In the backseat, loaded with backpacks, good memories, and our train tickets I think we both said a mental goodbye to the quaint, lively, welcoming city of Turin. We made the train, sitting across from each other, and took off for Milan with smiles on our faces.

Dream Vacation day 4 - Turin (pt 3)

Dinner was delicious. I took a chance on meat ravioli with a dark, gravy-like sauce and loved it! My portion was small because I'd ordered the appetizer as a meal but my stomach didn't stay empty long due to water, wine, and the dessert later. The waiter we had was friendly and very helpful with some English skill. We tried to end the meal on a dessert of Tiramisu, a dessert Ross adores but which, no matter how much I try, I don't really like past the first bite. I tried the Tiramisu, pushed the plate over to Ross, and ordered my own caramel flan. After lingering over our finished meal a bit longer talking and enjoying the laid-back atmosphere of the restaurant we shook hands with the waiter who'd become something of an old-friend during the time and stepped out into the cold.
Around the plaza Ross and I took a stroll. I don't know what he was thinking about but I was trying to commit to memory the day and the beautiful surroundings. Turin was quickly becoming one of my favorite European cities aside from Paris, Aix, and Toulouse. The night was calm and pretty but cold. After a while strolling and chatting, Ross and I finished our night back at the hotel devouring our chocolates bought at Stratta earlier in the day. We talked over the things we just 'had' to see before our train to Milan the next day. I was impressed we'd fit so much into the day, but was thankful for my feet that the next day included sitting on a train. The chocolates were appreciated, the next day planned, and sleep found.

Dream Vacation day 4 - Turin (pt 2)

Using my trusty guide book Ross and I chose two restaurants on the same street near the Egyptian Museum that we wanted to see before the end of the day. Of course, due to the time of year, one was closed, but the other 'Dual' was open. We consulted the pizza menu and stepped inside the almost full restaurant. There seemed to be only two open tables, one almost behind the door at which the waitress tried to seat us, and another in the craziness between the door, the bar, and a table of 6. We seated ourselves at the second option and ordered delicious pizzas. The interior was decorated in a sleek modern style in the colors grey, white, and purple. Tin Cambell's tomato soup cans hung from the ceiling, converted into lights. The restaurant was full of locals and must have been a favorite because it remained full and bustling throughout our meal.
Next we hit the plaza San Carlo in search of some gelatto. Ross prefered this plaza although I prefered the plaza Vittorio next to our hotel. While searching for gelattocame across a chocolate/candy shop called Stratta. Ross saw me drooling over the window display and graciously paid for a visit inside. Although the jelly beans and fruit squares caught my eye with their bright colors I simply had to buy chocolate and introduce Ross to the concept of a truffle (the chocolate kind, no the mushroom kind). One of the women who spoke english helped us pick out three chocolates each. By now, the balls of my feet were starting to ache, but the chocolates made me forget about it. Failing at finding gelatto, despite a place labeled 'gelatteria', we decided we'd find some on Po after a visit to the Egyptian museum. I wanted to see some mummies!!
The Egyptian Museum was packed with people and with artifacts. I'd read in the guidebook that it housed the biggest collection outside of Cairo but seeing all of it seemed more daunting than reading about it. Lining walls and shelves, Ross and I saw hieroglyphics, mummies, amulets, etc. Both of us were surprised as we noticed more and more people bumping into us and children running free. Others talked on cell phones or took up the entire space in front of an explanation card on a display case. Remaining calm, although aware of such oblivious rudeness, we explored the museum with enthusiasm. In lower levels we got to see stone statues and sphinxes in a black, mirrored, spotlit room (quite the setting indeed for such beauty). Ross was interested in the pharoh from Moses' time and I in finding the copy of the rosetta stone. By the end of hours exploring the museum, our feet were killing us, although I was the weakling who needed to sit down a couple of times, and our heads were full of egyptian visions. We left the museum needed to rest up before dinner.
As we walked down Po I simply couldn't handle my boots anymore. They were still quite comfy but being on the balls of my feet for the previous three days had taken its toll. Each step felt like a stab. Ross kindly entered a shoe store with me without "I told you so" but it was so crowded that my patience couldn't stand it. Thankfully for my mood and Ross' feet as well, we found a gelatteria on the way back toward the hotel. Enjoying every taste of our tiny spoonfuls of yumminess we just rested in the feeling of not moving for the moment. While eating I convinced Ross to head back to the hotel by himself. I needed to be a complete diva and shop for some other warm boots and having Ross with me was not going to work. I was aware of how his feet must be feeling and thought some time checking sports and internet at the hotel would do him some good. Reluctantly he left me to my mission.
I found a shop, got some grey boots which Ross later named 'elf boots', and was back at the hotel within the hour. After resting our feet, and more surfing the internet, we consulted the same helpful guy at the front desk for a dinner spot. He picked out a place close to the hotel named 'Porto di Savona', a place also in my guide book. Although a little disappointed from viewing the outside because the place didn't look that nice I was too tired from our full day to walk anywhere else. In we went and found ourselves in a homey restaurant with lots of charm and plenty of wine. I looked around the room appreciating the old clock and the gigantic jug of wine corks; the faded wall paper and the wooden beams actually complimented each other in an old world sort of way. It was definitely a place where you were going to get good food in heaping portions and no one would care what fork you used or your dinner etiquette.

Dream Vacation day 4 - Turin (pt 1)

The second day in Turin, Ross and I did a better job of being tourists. After hotel breakfast (which if you stay at a hotel in Europe usually consists of slices of meat and cheese, croissants, natural yogurt, corn flake cereal, coffee, and fruit juice) we got out of the hotel ready for a day of proper sightseeing. Ross and I both really wanted to see the former location of the Shroud of Turin as well as a Palace or two. After checking the hours of the ice skating rink set up in our plaza (an activity we definitely wanted to do before leaving Turin), we headed up the bustling street Po toward Duomo Saint John Baptist. Ross and I were a bit confused because on the map the cathedral was listed as Saint Giovanni....which now that I think about it does seem like Jean or John but at the time such as association was not clicking for us. Skipping over the Royal Plaza Ross led the way to the cathedral. I'm not sure what I expected but I was nonplussed by what I found. The cathedral was dark and unattractive thanks to the gaudy gilding here and there and a serious lack of light. I was impressed with the trompe l'oeil painting above the altar though. Ross and I took a quick walk around the interior, ending in front of the shroud's location (not the actual shroud) but a clearly indicated area especially dedicated to the Shroud. Behind what looked like bulletproof glass a square coffin/table like structure sat covered in white and red cloth and adorned on top with a crown of thorns. Above this ....holding tank shall we say.... hung an enlarged facsimile of the part of the shroud that showed Jesus' face. Ross waited patiently while I took pictures. Then we left the cathedral happy to have seen the location of the shroud but ready for some sunlight and more sights.
Ross was really interested in the Madama Palace which was conveniently located next to the Royal Palace, and both were positioned around the piazza Castello. The architecture of the Royal Palace was gorgeous but neither of us wanted to go inside; the tourist book didn't make it sound appealing enough. Instead, we crossed the few steps over the piazza Castello and entered the Madama Palace. Not sure of what we could see for free and what was considered a tour, Ross led through the entrance hall toward a room with a large Christmas tree. We were amazed when our feet hit glass. The entire floor of the room was glass so that you could see down into the stone passageways of the basement. It was both thrilling and scary for me to look through the floor to the stone level below. With nothing else exciting in that room, we moved back out into the entrance hall flanked by two grand staircases. Others were lazily traversing them so Ross and I did the same. Unfortunately the staircase only led to an upper hallway over the entrance and then down the other staircase back to ground level. Intrigued with the beauty of what we'd seen for free, we decided to spend some euros on the tour/museum deeper inside the palace. The self-tour led through the museum collection of religious art and medieval art. Although much of it was fascinating and cool to see I think my favorite part were the upper levels.
Ross and I were both wondering if the entire castle would consist of art or if any of it would show palace rooms true to their age. We explored the basement with a beautiful roman mosaic floor exhibition. After traveling up a spiral stone staircase our wishes were fulfilled. Palace rooms with old wooden floors, floor to ceiling mirrors, and thick, gaudy, richly colored wall paper greeted us. We saw breathtaking furniture and beautiful fireplaces. On the next floor, we explored the endless rows of china (I mean endless!) and a room entirely dedicated to lace. But my absolute favorite part of the hours long tour we took was the jewelry exhibition that the palace had in the ballroom. The ballroom itself was elegant and spacious - Ross had trouble dragging me away from it - but to add to the allure was an exhibition with ambient music and moving lights of American costume jewelry from the first half of the 20th century.
Some of the sparkle seemed to interest Ross, which made me feel less selfish about oohing and aahing over each bejeweled little work of art. Finally, drunk off the glitz and glamour (at least I was), we left the Madama Palace hungry for lunch.